When people think of the Salton Sea, the first things that often come to mind are toxic waters, chemical spills, and desolation. It’s a man-made lake in the middle of California’s Colorado Desert that many have written off as a toxic wasteland. But is it really as bleak as it sounds? Recently, I decided to go on a road trip with a friend to see the Salton Sea for myself, and let me tell you—it was an experience that challenged all of my preconceptions.

In this post, I’ll take you through the history of the Salton Sea, share what it’s like to visit today, and explore whether there’s any hope for this once-glorious resort destination to reclaim its former status.

The Rise and Fall of the Salton Sea

The Salton Sea wasn’t always the eerie, abandoned place it’s known as today. In fact, it was once considered a paradise for vacationers. Back in the 1950s and ’60s, the Salton Sea was a hotspot for fishing, boating, and all sorts of water-based recreation. Celebrities flocked to its shores, and glamorous resorts sprang up along the water’s edge. It was California’s version of a Riviera, with sparkling waters, endless sunshine, and bustling marinas.

But this glory didn’t last long. The Salton Sea’s fall from grace is a classic tale of environmental neglect and human error. The lake itself was created by accident in 1905 when water from the Colorado River breached a canal, flooding a natural basin that eventually became the Salton Sea. As the years went by, agricultural runoff began to flow into the lake, filling it with chemicals, salts, and pesticides. Without a natural outlet, the lake’s water started to evaporate, leaving behind high levels of salt and pollutants that killed off much of the wildlife and made the area a ghost town.

What I Heard: Toxicity, Stench, and Despair

Before my trip, everything I heard about the Salton Sea wasn’t exactly encouraging. People described it as a wasteland—a dead lake where nothing was alive. Some said it was dangerous because of chemical spills and toxic dust storms that could make you sick. And, of course, there was the infamous smell. I’d heard that the air around the lake was unbearable due to decaying fish and algae blooms. If you’d asked me a year ago if I wanted to visit the Salton Sea, I probably would’ve said no way.

But as someone who loves to explore hidden and forgotten places, I was curious. Could it really be as bad as people said?

My Visit to the Salton Sea: Surprising Beauty Amid Decay

When my friend and I drove up to the Salton Sea, I was expecting the worst. But to my surprise, the first thing that struck me wasn’t a stench, but rather a fresh, crisp, desert breeze. As we stepped out of the car and took a deep breath, I realized that the air was cleaner than I had imagined. No rotten egg smell, no stinky fish—it was just a quiet, peaceful desert day.

Looking out over the lake, it was hard to believe this was the same place I’d heard so many negative things about. The water was a beautiful shade of blue, with ducks floating lazily on the surface. I was struck by the contrast between the shimmering lake and the stark white sand that surrounded it. From a distance, the scene was almost serene—like a postcard from a desert oasis.

But as we walked closer to the shoreline, things started to change. The beach was littered with the remnants of a more prosperous past. Old, rusted speedboats lay abandoned in the sand, their hulls half-buried and their paint peeling away. Trash was scattered everywhere—old tires, deflated beach balls, broken chairs, and even life preservers. It was as if time had frozen, and we were seeing the ruins of a forgotten vacation spot.

I couldn’t help but imagine what this place must have looked like in its heyday. The shores were likely packed with sunbathers and families enjoying the water. Now, all that was left were these ghostly relics of a bygone era.

A Glimpse of Its Former Glory

Despite the decay, there was still something undeniably beautiful about the Salton Sea. We found a bench near the water and sat for a while, just taking in the view. The sun was beaming at about noon, the sky was clear and blue, and the mountains in the distance created a dramatic backdrop. It was easy to see why people once flocked to this place—it’s stunning, in its own strange way.

While sitting there, we noticed a few campers parked nearby in their RVs, clearly enjoying the solitude and quiet of the area. The peacefulness was almost eerie, given the state of disrepair all around us. It felt like we were sitting in the middle of a forgotten world, where nature was slowly reclaiming the land.

Driving Along Highway 111: Decay Everywhere

After spending some time by the lake, we decided to drive along Highway 111, which runs parallel to the Salton Sea. This stretch of road is where the full extent of the area’s decline becomes painfully clear. We passed by once-grand homes—mansions, really—that now stood abandoned and dilapidated. Many of them had broken windows, overgrown yards, and peeling paint. It was hard to believe that this place had once been a playground for the rich and famous.

We also drove by the ruins of old hotels and a post office, all of them crumbling and forgotten. It felt like driving through a ghost town, where life had suddenly stopped, leaving behind only memories of what once was.

The Environmental Fallout: Is There Hope for the Salton Sea?

So, what happened to the Salton Sea, and is there any hope for its recovery? The lake’s decline is primarily the result of pollution from agricultural runoff, which has filled the water with salts, chemicals, and pesticides over the years. As the lake’s water evaporates, these pollutants become more concentrated, killing off fish and making the lake uninhabitable for most aquatic life.

Additionally, the receding shoreline has exposed large areas of dry lakebed, which can create toxic dust storms when the wind kicks up. These dust storms have been linked to respiratory issues in nearby communities, making the area not just unpleasant, but potentially dangerous.

Several studies have been conducted on the long-lasting effects of pollution at the Salton Sea. Experts warn that if something isn’t done to address the environmental issues, the situation will only get worse. The toxic dust could pose a serious health risk to residents in the area, and the ecosystem could continue to deteriorate.

But there are also efforts underway to save the Salton Sea. Various environmental groups and government agencies are working on plans to restore the lake’s ecosystem, reduce pollution, and manage the water levels. These efforts are still in the early stages, but there is hope that the Salton Sea could one day become a thriving destination once again.

Will It Ever Return to Its Glory Days?

It’s hard to say if the Salton Sea will ever fully recover. The environmental damage is significant, and the area’s reputation has been tarnished by years of neglect. But standing on the shores of the lake, watching the ducks swim in the calm water, I couldn’t help but feel a glimmer of hope. There’s still beauty here—still something worth saving.

For now, the Salton Sea remains a place of contrasts. It’s a mix of natural beauty and human neglect, of stunning landscapes and decaying structures. It’s a reminder of how easily paradise can slip away, but also a testament to the resilience of nature.

If you’re ever in the area, I encourage you to take a drive out to the Salton Sea. It might not be the glamorous resort it once was, but it’s a fascinating place to explore. And who knows? Maybe in a few years, we’ll see the Salton Sea rise from the ashes of its past, ready to welcome a new generation of visitors.

Check out my post on Salvation Mountain here. If you are looking for more things to do around the Salton Sea, click here for my post on Dos Palmas Reserve.